![]() maybe better to scale a bit shorter and add 5/8 inch" it seems to me that you still are talking about standard SUP board dimensions but none about scale-up shortboard SUP So below my last design with a dims ratio of 7'10'' 28" 4" 100litres. Therefore when you are saying" " I think 8'7" x 29.4 would put you at the 100L mark but the board would be 3.64 inches thick. ![]() That sounds right to me, better stability on a thin but large board rather than a thick narrow corky board. It seems to me that you rightly point on the ratio thickness/surface. Hi Lukemin, I didn't pay enough attention to your past inputs, sorry. Please, I want to ask your weight and height? Hi Kami, I agree you can't scale up so much and expect to get a SUP board performing as the sb, but also I think performance surf SUPs have already been designed so no need to scale up at all. 7'7'' 28" 100 litres with 5 fins FCS K2 Thruster with small leading twinzer fin. So I keep drawing and by now I'm working with the kind of concave bottom shape and rocker. This makes me say that you cant simply scale up an SB shape to a SUP to make a good board. IMO, to reply to '' Shortboard to sup ratio- calling you shapers" the reply is not to give a ratio but to make a whole SUP shape working as an SB shape. ![]() So if you want to pump the SUP board as you would do it on an SB, you must have your foot stance aside of the 30" concave location. Once you scale up to a SUP 7'4" the max concave deepness comes up to 30 " from the tail. I didn't quite get what you meant about the tail rocker at 17 vs 30"? Hi Benji, I mean that the location of the planning area which is also the max deepness of the concave is situated around 17'' from the tail on the SB. Dropped the base on the Skil saw until only an inch of blade was showing and sawed it out top and bottom, laid it across 3 Workmates and cleaned it up with the planer, adjusting the lines even more, when I look at it, it isn’t 100%, I can see slightly flatter areas, but isn’t it going to get “shaped”.Kami said. ![]() It took a couple of adjustments to get the curve looking clean, but got past center, moved the stick until it touched the nose, clamped it back down and faired the lines out to the nose. It was a hodgepodge of lines, but I have a cedar batten 16 feet long, started at the tail with it clamped down and moved toward center, clamping as I went. Started at center and butted the 8’ mark of the 16 against the outside end of the center section, slipped the 7’ down to the next, so on until the ends. I am in the middle of building a 24 foot balsa blank, I had the rocker stick from the 16 footer from the same group, divided the 24 into 16 sections, 17-1/8" each.
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